Sunday, September 9, 2012

Corset Muslin Construction


Hello again!  Since we last met our sewing heroes a muslin version of corset View A has been assembled!  For those unfamiliar with garment sewing, a muslin is a practice version of a garment made out of less expensive fabric.  I made this muslin out of very inexpensive muslin from a discount store before I cut into my brocade satin from Fabric Mart Fabrics.

Anywho, using the basting techniques I read about in Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques, I hand assembled the corset pieces.  I knew this would make it much easier to take apart seams for alterations and adjustments.  Additionally, hand basting all the seams is much gentler on the fragile, easy-to-stretch-out-of-shape edges. 

To ensure proper fit (after all, what's the point of going to the trouble of making a muslin unless it represents how the actual garment will fit?) I basted in the boning channels and boning ( both purchased at the lovely Corset Making Supplies.com) onto each seam.  I attached the bra cups using a catch stitch.  Instead of grommets for this practice garment, I put in a zipper.  Here's the finished product:


 
 
And here are the guts:
 
 
 
 
 
Once finished, I tried it on and found that I needed to add about 2 inches to the back pieces.  I figure that the pattern was designed to allow a little space in the back between the grommets, but I'd prefer less space. 



Unfortunately, now the next step is to rip out all the hard work I've done to put the boning and the bra cups into the final garment.  The real corset will be a brocade satin underlined with a crisp cotton to hide the important stitches. 


 
 
I just love the purple flowers!  My sweetie loves it too (or at least he says he does :P)!
 
 
Catch us again next time, same Bat time, same Bat channel!

Monday, September 3, 2012

The Dress.


Many say that the clothes make the man.  Well, I like to think that clothes make the woman too.  In this case it's the dress.  That signature dress that everyone will remember.  Or at least makes someone say "Wow!"

That dress (for a special occasion coming up in October) was destined to be Butterick 4918, a Retro Butterick reprint of a 1952 design.



I'm planning on making View B with the over-the-shoulder wrap.  I absolutely love the gather details on the bodice and the wrap.  At the moment I'm planning on using a beautiful deep blueberry silk taffeta from Fabric Mart Fabrics and underlining it with crisp silk organza.  The envelope art shows the skirt a tad droopy for my taste, don't you think?  A nice poufy crinoline is definitely in order. 


Simplicity 5006 will fit the bill.  View C with the flat waistband and the View A corset will keep things nice and smooth at the waist.

 The corset muslin is currently under construction.  More on that later!